Friday, February 11, 2011

Pantaloons: Fitting

I made a lot of changes to my first pants muslin (not pictured) so I decided to make another one just in case, and good thing I did because I had a few more adjustments to make. . .

First thing, the back pant legs were a little loose, but the front was fine. In the photographs below, my left pant leg is a little tighter than my right (I only adjusted one side.) It is subtle, but the adjustment was worth it.

Now since I wanted to adjust the back pattern piece and not the front, I couldn't just take in extra at both side seams, so I had to rip all the stitches out:

With the pants on, it is hard to pin out excess fabric that is behind me while trying to keep everything straight, and not poking my self, so I just pinched out what felt like about 1/2" inch, and took that amount out of the side seams. If it wasn't enough I would start the process over again.

This was my process:

I needed 1/2" total out of the back pattern piece, thus I took out 1/4" out of side seam and inseam. Instead of marking my fabric with a ruler and pencil, I just stitched a guide line 1/4" away from the edge down the inseam and the side seam and lined the front pattern piece edge to that guide line:

Here is the inside of that seam pressed open. You can see that the seam allowance on the bottom (the front pant leg) is still 1/2", and the top seam allowance (the back pant leg) is now 3/4":

This makes the back pant leg 1/4" tighter on that side. Do this to both sides and you have 1/2" taken out. Easy peasy.

Then I made the adjustment on the pattern:

Just marked 1/4 inch from the edge of the fabric and cut it off.

I also took a horizontal pleat out of the pants at the top from the front to the back. The fabric there was a little saggy, and almost naturally folded that pleat, so I just pinned it (as best as I could) all the way around. Turns out the front needed 3/4" taken out, the side seams 1/2" and the back 1/4"

I went ahead and put on my sample vest just for fun. The only adjustment I need to make on that is move the hem down about 3/4" at the front. And I need to make the points at the front more gradual from the side seam.

Also notice that these pants are sans waistband. I would only fit a waistband if it is contoured. These pants fit at my natural waist (well almost, they are a little lower) and the waistband is going to be 1 1/2" so I can make a straight waistband, and I don't think any fitting will be necessary.

It is difficult to see these adjustments with this black fabric, so here is the pleat with the pants off:

To make this adjustment on the pattern I did this (I only pictured the back pattern piece, but it is the same idea for the front):

First, I measured where the pleat started on the front pattern piece, about 6" down from the waist. Then I drew a horizontal line from the center front to the side seam perpendicular to the grain line. Then from that same point on the side seam of the back pattern piece, to the center back seam, once again perpendicular to the grainline. Then I drew a line below that first one measuring the width of the pleat I took out of my sample, 1/2" at the side seam, and 1/4" at the back seam:

Then cut the bottom line:

Lined it up with the top one, and taped it:

I guess it is time to cut out my fabric now. Here it is:

I will be using David Page Coffin's book, Making Trousers for Men and Women as instructions for these pants. I am going to use his petersham waistband method, so I still have to buy some of that stuff, I also need some pocket lining, and think I'll be ready to start.


lsaspacey said...

Cool, that suit is going to be very cool! It reminds me of menswear designer, Thom Brown. They specialize in tight, almost 1960's pants for men in cool color combinations.

Sugardale said...

Thanks, yeah I love Thom Browne. He always wears/designs high waters too. I wasn't thinking Thom Browne when I cropped my pants, that is just where I like my pants to stop.

Heather said...

I can't wait to see the end result. Your work and tips are wonderful. ! <3