Monday, February 9, 2009

That Wool Dress

I am finally getting around to posting more about the dress I made to wear in New York because I have been busy moving all of my sewing stuff to a studio. Yeah, that's right, I have a studio to sew in! Oh my god! More on that later, though. . .

Here it is:

Since I didn't have any dresses that were appropriate for the weather, I decided to make this wool dress. I basically had the pattern made, I just modified this dress, adding lapels, and changing the sleeves, which I also had a pattern for, so the pattern making part was fast and easy.

The most difficult part was sewing the lapels. This was my 4th time sewing notched lapels, and I think the process is finally etched into my brain, and I don't think I'll need the book next time.

The book I am talking about is called Tailoring: The Classic Guide to Sewing the Perfect Jacket. While it is for tailoring, there are some really good pointers for sewing, fusing, lining, vents, pockets. . . I highly recommend buying it.

Anyway, the lapels:

Oh and this belt buckle was the easiest one I've ever sewn. Before I would hand stitch the entire thing, starting at at one side and stitching all the way around. This time I stitched all the straight sides first, then went back and stitched the corners last. If any of you sew belt buckles, this is the way to do it, unless you already did it this way, then you were ahead of me. But man, it was so much faster and easier.

And if you don't know how to cover your own belt buckles, and would like to, this issue of Threads taught me how.

And the sleeves:

I've made this same sleeve before (on this dress-which is almost the same design, but wasn't my size), but here it is easier to see the inverted pleat. To get that sharp point on the cuff, I just ironed the seam allowance down, and top stitched the whole thing on.

This dress, unlike all my others doesn't have pockets. I had every intention of including pockets, but when I went to cut the pieces out, I didn't have enough fabric. It is an easy fix though. I just have to open up the side seams, and sew a couple in. I'll get around to that one day.


50sgal said...

I think you are by far my favorite seamstress online (or anywhere, but of course I don't know you in person.) I don't know if this dress is one of your own designs but it is so wonderful. I wanted to make somthing similiar for myself and I even have the fabric and a pattern I was going to alter, but I am in awe of your finishing and pattern matching skills. Brava!!

Amanda W. said...

I love this dress! I would love to have 100 of them in all different colors! hehe I've seen instructions on how to make your own belts and covered buckles but I can't seem to find the supplies. :( I'll be attending a sewing class soon, and then I plan on taking a couple on flat pattern design. You're a big inspiration!

OwlPlusAlligator said...

my brother recommended your blog to me and i have to say i LOVE this dress- so classic an adorable! i never see ppl use this pattern anymore, i wish i could have you fit one for me!!!

Ana Stepalica said...

Hello Sugardale, I've stumbled upon your blog via Pinterest, and I really love this dress. I have a question for you, since I'm uncertain the choice of fabric would suit me. I love the dress just the way it is, and really like the tweed. But I can't imagine an appropriate time to wear it, since the woolen tweed looks too warm for sunny autumn days, and short sleeves bring chills to my bones at colder weather. When do you wear your dress? I've always had issues with short sleeved woolen dresses, even though I love how they look.